The revenge of French meat lovers

Charcoal portraits of poultry, hunting trophies and a huge fridge full of carcasses: Welcome to Gueuleton, the temple of feast nestled in the chic Parisian district of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. On the counter, a ham slicer awaited its moment of glory. Next to it, a platter of smelly cheeses tickle customers’ noses. In a rustic-chic lounge with exposed beams, the first guests sat down and consulted a synthetic leather menu, while nibbling on the complimentary sausage. « The menu changes every month, » said the waiter, while a 1980s French pop song played at full volume. Inside this establishment, which opened in May 2024, you’ll find traditional dishes, almost all with a French stamp: rack of lamb, pork chop or 300-gram veal T-bone. There are no vegetarian options here, but plenty of meat. Listed on a giant slate, the cuts of meat to be shared fueled the discussions at each table. « Do you like marbled meat? » a father asked his perplexed teenager.

At the opposite table, a man in his fifties choked up when he learned that his son-in-law didn’t appreciate wine: « But you don’t drink it at all, Arnaud? » Fortunately, the 1,500 grams of Holstein beef at €110 per kilo was something everyone could agree on. Originally from Touraine, the family had taken advantage of a stopover in Paris to dine at Gueuleton. « I’ve been meaning to introduce them to this restaurant for so long, » said the group leader. The lover of good food, who hesitated between eggs mayonnaise and pork belly as a starter, appreciated the emphasis on local produce, which he finds all too hard to come by. Near the counter, two 20-somethings in blue shirts enjoyed « excellent meat. » A waitress said: « Some young people have fun doing foodie tours, where they test out all our restaurants. »

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